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Crochet Amigurumi Heirloom Christmas Girl and Boy Elf CAL

 

 

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If you like my free YouTube video tutorials and free written patterns, you can donate any amount you like to help fund my creations and my work. Thank you so much for your support, I really appreciate it! At the end of every year, I am going to randomly draw one of my donor’s name for a special surprise (I am not responsible for lost or damaged mail). Also, people who donate to my blog, are entitled to ANY of my available 2 free paid written patterns for the year that they donate. To receive your free paid written patterns just contact me via my blog and let me know which paid written pattern (s) you would like to receive via email. I can never thank you enough for your support!

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CAL start date 5Aug2018: If you are a donor to my blog, or you Personal Message (PM) pictures of your crochet elf work on my Facebook public page,  you are eligble to Contact me through my blog, and I will send you the PDF crochet written pattern pages for the CAL for free.  Happy Crocheting!!!

You can thank Sarah L. for this Crochet-Along (CAL). After I finished my Crochet Large Amigurumi Eeyore CAL  I asked the people in my Helenmay Crochet YouTube Channel Facebook Group for special requests for my next CAL. Sarah L. was the first to respond, and she requested the Christmas Elf. I thought that a Christmas Elf would be perfect for my Crochet Christmas Heirloom collection. The Elves will also go with my crochet Rudolph that will be coming out after I complete the Elves.

 

 

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I love going to antique stores! When I first agreed to make a crochet elf CAL, I found the above comic book, and I couldn’t resist purchasing it.  I didn’t spend $0.15, but I still think I got a great deal for it. I thought it would go perfectly with my crochet elves. I am putting the delicate pages in PDF format and then sealing the original version to pass down to the next generations in my family. The PDF format version of the stories will come out with my Christmas Elves when I put them out each year for Christmas.

Here are some links to Children’s books that you may like to go with your Crochet Elf:

     Book 1

Book 2 (Flips up!)

Book 3 (The Classics version)

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Santa’s Lookouts Free PDF Download: Santa’s Lookouts Newsletter

Free coloring page from “The Elves and the Shoemaker.” The Elves and the Shoemaker Coloring Page

Naming your Elf free PDF Download: What is your Elf Name?

You are going to love the The Learning Station, they have other fun free children’s activity downloads too.

 

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Let us get started Crocheting your Christmas Heirloom Elf!!!!

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Copying and distribution prohibited. For personal use only.

Helenmay Crochet You Tube Channel
http://tinyurl.com/helenmaycrochet

Helenmay Crochet Amigurumi
Heirloom Christmas Elf

 

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Pattern by Helen Brady

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ABBREVIATIONS:

Sc= single crochet inc= increase
Ch= chain stitch rnd(s)= round (s)
FO= finish off or fasten off Sl st= slip stitch
Right side= the side that will be showing mm= millimeter (s)
Wrong side= the side that will not be showing. cm= centimeter (s)
dc= double crochet hdc= half double crochet
Tr= treble crochet st= stitch (# total)= stitch count
Sc2tog= Single crochet 2 stitches together: Insert your crochet hook into the next stitch, yarn over (YO). Pull the yarn through the stitch on your crochet hook. You should now have two loops on your crochet hook. Insert your crochet hook into the next stitch. YO. Pull the yarn through the stitch on your crochet hook. You should now have three loops on your crochet hook. YO, pull the yarn through all three loops on your crochet hook.

Measurements for the Crochet Christmas Elf: 

The crochet girl elf approximate measurement is 17.5″ tall.

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GENERAL MATERIALS LIST: You can mix and match yarn colors for different looks. Just be aware that different yarn choices can change the look and size of your crochet Christmas Elf when finished.
-I used hand painted Christmas Wreath Safety Doll eyes with silver size 15mm from 6060 eyes.
-Crochet Hook Size 3.75mm.
-Tapestry Needle and scissors.
-Craft stuffing. I recommend inexpensive pillow stuffing.
-2 buttons for each elf outfit. Optional: You will need 2 additional buttons for the girl elf earrings, or you can use real Christmas Earrings.
-Optional: 1 Self-grip roller voluminous curls from Conair to help stabilize the elf’s neck.
-Optional: Blush for the cheeks. I used Almay color 140 pink.
-Optional: Small or medium Pom Pom maker. I show how to make diy pom poms using cardboard in my Crochet Easy Sleepy Owl Baby Hat.

-Optional for the elf shoes: Multi-colored jingle bells (Prime eligible),  or if you want the Golden bells only (Prime eligible). If you don’t want to buy the jingle bells, you can use a pom pom instead.

-Optional: fake eyelashes1 super glue that comes with a brush, 1 scotch tape to protect the safety eyes.

-Optional: I put something in the crochet boy elf’s front pocket. If you would like to put the same mystery item, click here. Alternate item, click here.  I couldn’t find the Bead Treasures Christmas locket on Amazon that says “Do not open til Christmas,” but you may like this Christmas Locket.

**My yarn recommendations (On YouTube video tutorial, I used some different yarn choices. So, you can see the broad range of yarn choices that you could have when making your own unique crochet Christmas Elf. Just remember that different yarn choices can affect the size of your Elf.

-1 skein Crafters Secret yarn from Hobby Lobby “Magnolia Way,” for the girl and boy elf doll head and ears.
-1 skein “Pretty n Pink” Red Heart Yarn, for the mouth.
-1 skein Caron Simply Soft yarn “Chocolate,” for the hair. Alternate color: 1 skein “Pumpkin” colored Red Heart Super Saver yarn.
-1 skein Caron Simply Soft Party yarn “Red Sparkle,” for the girl elf hat and shoes.  Alternate yarn choices: Red Heart with Love Metallic yarn (Choose the color that you want).

-1 skein Caron Kindness Yarn from Michaels Craft Store “Forest,” for the boy and girl elf hats, shirt cuffs, and stockings.
-1 skein medium 4, 100% acrylic “White” yarn.
-1 skein medium 4, 100% acrylic “bright red or cherry red” yarn, for the girl elf’s dress and stockings and the boy elf’s shirt and stockings.
-2 skeins Red Heart Soft yarn “Deep Sea,” for the boy elf’s hat, outfit, and shoes and the girl elf’s shirt.

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HEAD- Magnolia Way colored yarn.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 8sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 16).
***Alternative to the magic circle:
-Ch2
-work all of your stitches in the second ch from the hook. Do not count the 1st ch you skipped as a stitch.
**Do you need additional practice, or want to learn the magic circle, here is the direct link to my YouTube video tutorial: Magic circle video tutorial

-Increase rounds:
-*1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
-*1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(32 total)
-*1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(40 total)
-Make 1sc in every stitch around for 8 rounds. (40 total)
For the boy elf only, I skipped this portion for a different look. I prefer the larger head though:
-*1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(48 total) -Make 1sc in every stitch around for 2 rounds. (48 total)
Continue on with the boy and girl elf:
Using the magic circle as a landmark on top of the head, count down 9 rounds and place the safety doll eyes with 3 st between them. Optional: Place scotch tape over the safety eyes and super glue the eyelashes in place; as shown in the picture below.

With your tapestry needle, sew the hair around the 2nd and 4th round from the magic circle. Make the length of the hair whatever you want. I made my boy and girl bangs reach the top of the safety doll eyes (You can trim them later). The girl’s hair length for mine is approximately 5 to 6 inches.
The boy’s hair length is approximately 1.5 to 2 inches around the head. You may want to make the boy’s hair length a little longer at first and then trim it after tying the knots. Don’t worry if the hair sticks up, because the elf hat will be sewn in place, and the hat will hold the hair down.

 

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HEAD Cont:
After you finish the hair, set the head aside for now. We are going to make the Elf hat.

ELF HAT: You are going to need your sparkle red, forest green, and white yarn for the girl hat. You are going to need your Deep Sea, sparkle red, forest green, and red yarn for the boy hat.
Brim for the hat: Sparkle red, forest green, and white yarn (same for the boy and girl elf hat).
Starting ch-I started with my sparkle red colored yarn. Ch9.
Row 1-Make 1sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and every st back across. (8 total)
Row 2 and 3-*Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from * one more time. (8 total)
Row 4 to 6-Change yarn color to white (Bury your loose yarn ends as you crochet). *Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from* 3 times. (8 total)
Row 7 to 9-Change yarn color to Forest Green. *Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from* 3 times. (8 total)
The next color will be sparkle red, then white, then Forest Green. Continue to alternate 3 rows of each color until you have a total of 39 rows. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.

Fold the multi-colored strip in half lengthwise and sew it together. Then form a circle, and sew the two ends together. On the same side that you sewed lengthwise, join your main color for the hat. You should join the yarn in the back of the hat, where you sewed the two ends together to form a circle.

 

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Top portion of the hat: Sparkle red colored yarn for the girl and Deep Sea colored yarn for the boy.
-Make 1sc evenly spaced all the way around the circle. (39 total)

If you don’t end up with 39 stitches for the round, you can increase or decrease the st count when crocheting the second round. To increase: Evenly space 2sc into the number of stitches that you need to increase the st count by for the round. To decrease: Evenly space Sc2tog for the number of stitches that you need to decrease to for the round.

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The top portion of the hat cont:
-Make 1sc in every st around for 10 rounds.
Decrease rounds: If you have 1 st remaining in the round, end with a Sc2tog.
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. (31 total)
– Make 1sc in every st around for 8 rounds. (31 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 st, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. (24 total)
– Make 1sc in every st around for 8 rounds. (24 total)
-*Make 1sc in 1 st, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round (16 total)
– Make 1sc in every st around for 9 rounds. (16 total)
-Sc2tog until almost closed and the Slst closed. FO.
Make your pom pom and sew it on to the top of the hat. Smooth the elf hair down and position the elf hat on the head. If you don’t have enough hair showing on the back of the boy elf’s head, you can add another row of hair on the back of his head before sewing the hat in place. I sewed my hat with the same colored yarn as the main color for the hat. I sewed just above the brim of the hat.

HEAD Cont:
Sew the nose on. I doubled up the “Magnolia Way” colored yarn on my tapestry needle. Sew the nose over 2 stitches, on the round just below the eyes, 3 times.
Decrease rounds: The stitch count is for the girl elf. The boy elf total st count is given after the last 3 rounds.
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(40 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(32 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
Sew the mouth on with your “Pretty n Pink” yarn: On the first, or second, round below the nose, and one st over to the right, come up from the wrong side with your tapestry needle. Go 1 st to the left, and 1 round down to complete the right side of the smile. Go 2 stitches to the left and come up from the wrong side with your tapestry needle and go back down with your tapestry needle 2 stitches to the right; to complete the main portion of the smile. Come up with your tapestry needle from the wrong side; 1 round up, from the left side of the main portion of the smile, and go back in with your tapestry needle, on the right side 1 st to the right and 1 round down; to complete the left side of the smile.
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(16 total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (16 total) For the boy elf (13 total).
-Slst. FO.

 

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EARS: Use your “Magnolia Way” colored yarn. Make 2.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds.  As you crochet your stitches in the round, make sure that the loose yarn end is on the inside of the ear (Instead of using a yarn marker to keep track of the rounds, keep making 1sc in every st around up to the count of 18 stitches). (6 total)
-*Make 1sc in 1 st and then 2sc in the next st. Repeat from * for one round. (9 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 st and then 2sc in the next st. Repeat from * for one round. Make 2sc in each of the last 2 st. (13 total)

-Make 2sc in the first st, then 1sc in every st around for 1 round. (14 total)
– Make 1sc in every st around for 2 rounds. (14 total).
-Slst. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.

 

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Position the ears as shown in the picture above; with the larger portion of the ear towards the brim of the hat and the front edge of the ear approximately 4 to 5 st from the safety doll eye. Sew the ears in place with your tapestry needle. Make sure that your ears are symmetrical, and that the bottom portion, of the ears, is on the same round.   If you want to, you can place more hair on the back of the girl/boy doll’s head.

 

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BODY: For the girl’s body, I used my Deep Sea colored yarn. For the boy’s body, I used my Red colored yarn.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 12).

-Increase rounds:

-*1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (18 total)

-*1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (24 total)

-*1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (30 total)

-*1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (36 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 16 rounds. (36 total)
Fill the body with craft stuffing as you close. We are going to leave a small opening for the neck.

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BODY Cont:

Decrease rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(24total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 total)
-*Make 1sc in 1 st, then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(12 total)
-Slst. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
Finish stuffing the head and the body being careful not to over stuff. Take one of your curlers and put half of it in the head portion (Twist the curler clockwise into the head to get it to move). You can place a couple of stitches at the base of the neck into the curler to secure it in place. If you have difficulties getting the other half of the curler into the body, start sewing the head to the body. The stitch will pull the body towards the head and over the curler. Sew all around the base of the neck, and the top opening of the body, until the two pieces are sewn together and the curler is completely covered.

 

Set the crochet doll aside for now.
ARMS: Use the same colored yarn as the body. Make 2.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle. (6 total)

-Make 2sc in every st around. (12 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 11 rounds. (12 total)
Place craft stuffing in the arms.
-Close the opening of the arm by holding the two opposite sides of the arm together. Make 1sc, into both sides of the opening, to crochet the 2 sides together. Make 1sc into each st across. (5 total)

-*Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from * 3 times. (5 total)

-FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing. Set this portion aside for now.
ARM CUFF: Use your red, white, and green colored yarn. Make 2.
-Ch5 -Make 1sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and each st back across. (4 total)

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ARM CUFF Cont:
-*Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from * 2 times. (4 total)

-Join your new yarn color. The sequence of yarn color changes that I used: Red, green, white. Tie a triple knot, and bury your loose yarn ends as you crochet.

-*Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from * 3 times. (4 total)

-Continue to alternate 3 rows of each color until you have completed 15 rows. (4 total)

-Do not FO. Turn your work lengthwise, make 1sc into the next st and each st across the top length of the rectangle, and all the way around back to where you started (Make 2sc into each of the corner stitches).

-FO and leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.

 

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Fold the cuff in half, with the right sides together, and sew the two ends together to form a ring. Turn your work inside out so that the right side is showing. Set this portion aside to make the hand.
HAND: Use your “Magnolia Way” colored yarn. Make 2.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle. (6 total)

-Make 2sc in every st around. (12 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (12 total)
Decrease round:
-*Make 1sc in one st and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round (8 total) -Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (8 total) -Slst and FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
SEWING THE ARM PIECES TOGETHER: Arm, Cuff, and Hand.

 

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First, sew the cuff to the arm, it is important to keep track of whether you are working on the left or right arm as you sew. The seam of the cuff should face inwards towards the doll’s body.

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Using the magic circle on the arm as a landmark, I positioned the cuff 2 rounds down and sewed it in place. Next, I placed the hand in the cuff and sewed it in place.

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MAKING THE THUMB: Use your “Magnolia Way” colored yarn.
-Before you crochet the thumb, make sure that you pay attention to which arm you are making, whether it is the left or right arm. Imagine the arm flap end should be flat against the body, the cuff seam should be facing inwards, and the thumb should be facing up. Using the magic circle as a landmark on top of the hand, join your “Magnolia Way” colored yarn on the 4th round from the magic circle.

-Ch4.

-Slst at the base of the ch4 forming a small thumb loop. FO. Leave a slightly long loose yarn end for sewing the small loop of the thumb together and tying a knot. Bury your loose yarn ends.

Set the finished arms aside for now.
SHOES AND STOCKING LEGS: I used “Sparkle Red” yarn for the shoes, “white” yarn for the pom pom (Optional choice would be a jingle bell), “Bright Red or Sparkle Red,” “Forest Green,” and “White or Sparkle White” yarn for the stockings. Make 2.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle. (6 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. Hint: As you crochet 1sc in each st around, count up to 18; instead of using a yarn marker to keep track of the rounds (3 rounds x 6 stitches each round= 18 total stitches after 3 rounds). Also, make sure that you keep the loose yarn end in the center of the 3 rounds as you crochet because it is easier than trying to turn the crochet work inside out later.  (6 total stitches each round for 3 rounds).

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Shoes and Stocking Legs Cont:

 

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Increase Round:
-*Make 1sc in one st and 2sc into the 2nd st. Repeat from * for one round. (9 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (9 total)

-*Make 1sc in two st and 2sc into the 3rd st. Repeat from * for one round. (12 total) -Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (12 total)

-*Make 1sc in three st and 2sc into the 4th st. Repeat from * for one round. (15 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (15 total)

-Slst, FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
HEEL OF SHOE: Same color yarn as the front end of the shoe. Make 2.
-Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle. (6 total) -Make 2sc in every st around. (12 total)
Increase Round:
-*Make 1sc in one st and 2sc into the 2nd st. Repeat from * for one round. (18 total)

-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (18 total)

-Slst. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.

 

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Tie the loose yarn ends of the front end of the shoe and the heel of the shoe together. Line up the one side of the heel with the one side of the front of the shoe, with the right sides touching. Sew 4 stitches to the left and 4 stitches to the right. Tuck the loose yarn ends into the shoe. When you are finished, your work should look like the picture above. Make your pom pom and sew it to the tip of the shoe (Alternative is to use a jingle bell). Leave the long loose yarn ends for the pom pom. Make sure that the opening of the shoe is facing up, and bend the tip of the shoe over on top of the shoe. Using the long loose yarn ends from the pom pom, sew the tip of the shoe to the top of the shoe.

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STOCKING LEG: Use alternate colors of your choice. I used sparkle red, sparkle white, and Forest Green colored yarn. Make 2.
Round 1- Join your sparkle red colored yarn to the opening of the crochet shoe. Make 1sc in every st around except for the stitches where the front part of the shoe joins with the heel of the shoe, Sc2tog in those stitches. (19 total)
Round 2-Your total stitches after the first round may vary. If you have less than 19 total stitches, then make increase stitches in this round to bring the st count to 20 total (Remember that to make increase stitches you make 2sc in one st to increase the st count by 1 for the round. If you need more than one increase st, evenly space them in the round). (20 total)
Round 3 to Round 4– Make 1sc in every st around for 2 rounds. (20 total).
Use craft stuffing to stuff the crochet shoe.
Round 5– Make 1sc in each st until you are in the back of the shoe. Join your sparkle white colored yarn in the back of the shoe (Keep your color changes in the back of the stocking leg. I usually change colors in the st just before the color change, unless the color change is deviating to the left or to the right, then I would center the color change in-line so that it stays in the back portion of the leg.
Round 6 to Round 8– Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (20 total). HINT: Beginner crocheters, I would recommend counting each round to make sure that you are maintaining a 20 st count for each round. Don’t mistake your joining knot for a st in the round.
Round 9 to Round 36– *Make 1sc in every st around for 4 rounds. Change colors in the back of the stocking after every 4 rounds: Forest Green, Sparkle Red, Sparkle White. Repeat from * until you have completed 36 rounds. (20 total)
Use craft stuffing to stuff the stocking leg. As you crochet the next rounds, don’t add stuffing to the next rounds, because this next flat rectangular portion will be sewn to the crochet body.
Decrease round:
Round 37-* Make 1sc in 3 st and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. (16 total)
Round 38 to Round 44- Make 1sc in every st around for 7 rounds. (16 total)
-Slst. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
Set the legs aside for now. Sew the arms on the body.

 

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SEWING THE ARMS ON Cont:
Make sure that the thumbs are facing up, and that you sewed the square flap portion of the arm in place. The arms should move inwards and outwards after you are finished, and they should be equal in distance when touching.

 

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SEWING THE LEGS ON:
Using the magic circle on the bottom of the body, line up the flat portion of the crochet stocking legs on both sides of the magic circle and sew them in place. Sew all around the border of the flat square/rectangular flap of the stocking leg.
DRESS: Use your sparkle red yarn. Make 1.
Starting chain– Ch43

Row 1– Make 1dc into the 4th ch from the hook, and 1dc in each st back across. (41 total)

-Slst into the top st of the first dc, forming a ring. Use your tapestry needle to sew the bottom portion of the dc ring together.

Round 2– With the right side of your crochet work facing you, Ch1. Make 1sc into the next st and every st around, except for the last 2 st Sc2tog. (40 total)

Round 3– *Ch3, skip 3 st, make 1sc into the 4th st. Repeat from * for one round. (10 ch3 loops)

Round 4– *Ch3, skip 3 st, make 1sc into the 4th st. Repeat from * for one round. Your sc should fall into the previous rounds sc st. The ch3 loops will be directly over the previous rounds ch3 loops. (10 ch3 loops)

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DRESS Cont:
Round 5– *Slst into the 1st ch3 loop from the previous round. Ch3. Make 1dc into the sc from the previous round. With your crochet hook, go back into the triangular space formed by the ch3 and dc that you just made, and bring up a loop, and make a sc around the dc post. Then make 2 more sc around the same dc post. Repeat from * for one round. Slst into the base of the first ch3 that you made. (10 triangles)

 

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Round 6– Slst up the ch3 of the first triangle from the previous round until you are at the top of the first triangle. Ch4 (Counts as 1st sc and ch3) and make 1sc into the top of the next triangle. *Ch3 and then make 1sc into the top of the next triangle. Repeat from * for one round. (10 ch3 loops)

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Round 7– *Ch7 and then make 1sc into the sc from the previous round (The top of each triangle). (10 ch7 loops)
Round 8– *Ch3 and then make 1sc into the first ch7 loop, ch3, and then make 1sc into the first sc from the previous round (The top of the triangle). Repeat from * for one round. (20 ch3 loops)
Round 9– *Slst into the first ch3 loop from the previous round. Ch3. Make 1dc into the sc from the previous round. With your crochet hook, go back into the triangular space formed by the ch3 and dc that you just made, and bring up a loop, and make a sc around the dc post. Then make 2 more sc around the same dc post. Repeat from * for one round. Slst into the base of the first ch3 that you made. (20 triangles)

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DRESS Cont:
Round 10– Slst up the ch3 of the first triangle from the previous round until you are at the top of the first triangle. Ch4 (Counts as 1st sc and ch3) and make 1sc into the top of the next triangle. *Ch3 and then make 1sc into the top of the next triangle. Repeat from * for one round. (20 ch3 loops)
Round 11-*Slst into the 1st ch3 loop from the previous round. Ch3. Make 1dc into the sc from the previous round. With your crochet hook, go back into the triangular space formed by the ch3 and dc that you just made, and bring up a loop, and make a sc around the dc post. Then make 2 more sc around the same dc post. Repeat from * for one round. Slst into the base of the first ch3 that you made. (20 triangles)
If you want a shorter skirt for your doll, you can FO now. I repeated Round 10 and Round 11 one more time to make most of my crochet girl elf doll skirts a little longer.

MAKING THE INSIDE SLIP FOR THE DRESS: You can have fun with the yarn colors. I would recommend using the same yarn color that you used for the body.
-Turn the crochet dress inside out and find the back seam. Turn the dress upside down, so that the triangles on the dress are pointing away from you. Join your yarn in the first chain 3 loop to the left of the seam.

 

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Round 1- Ch3 and make 2 more dc into the same ch3 loop. *Make 1dc into the sc. Make 3dc into the next ch3 loop. Repeat from * for one round. Slst into the top st of the first ch3 that you made. (40 total)
Increase Round:
Round 2- Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next 2 stitches and then 2dc into the next st. *Make 1dc into the next 3 stitches and then 2dc into the 4th st. Repeat from * for one round. Slst into the top st of the first ch3 that you made. (50 total)
Round 3- Ch3, make 1dc into the next 2 stitches and then 2dc into the next st. *Make 1dc into the next 3 stitches and then 2dc into the 4th st. Repeat from * for one round. Slst into the top st of the first ch3 that you made. Make 1dc into each of the 2 remaining st. Slst into the top st of the first ch3 that you made. (62 total)

Page 16

DRESS Cont:
Round 4 to Round 5: Ch3, and make 1dc into the next st and every st around for 2 rounds. (62 total)
If you made the longer skirt like me, I made an additional round of 1dc in every st.
-FO.
TOP PORTION OF THE CROCHET DRESS: Use the same yarn color as the main color for the dress.
-Turn the crochet dress inside out so that the right side is facing you. Find the back seam at the top of the dress (The triangles are at the bottom of the dress). Join the yarn, that is the main color of your dress, in the stitch to the left of the top back seam.
-Ch3, make 1dc in the next st and every st around for 2 rounds. Slst into the top st of your first ch3 after completing each round. (41 total)
-First strap:
-Ch3, make 1dc into the next 3 stitches. (4 total)
-*Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * 9 times. (4 total)
-Buttonhole loop:
-Ch4 (Make sure that a ch4 loop is a large enough opening to fit around your button. You can make a larger chain if you need a larger opening)
-Skip 2 st, and make a slst into the last st. FO.
-Ch1, turn your work, make 4sc into the ch4 loop (If you have a larger chain for your button, make the same number of sc into the buttonhole loop.) Slst into the next st. FO.
-Second strap:
-From the top back seam of the dress, count 4 stitches to the right, and join your yarn.
-Ch3, make 1dc into the next 3 stitches. (4 total)
-*Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * 9 times. (4 total)
-Buttonhole loop:
-Ch4 (Make sure that a ch4 loop is a large enough opening to fit around your button. You can make a larger chain if you need a larger opening)
-Skip 2 st, and make a slst into the last st.
-Ch1, turn your work, make 4sc into the ch4 loop (If you have a larger chain for your button, make the same number of sc into the buttonhole loop.) Slst into the next st. FO.

Page 17

CROCHET DRESS Cont:
Turn the crochet dress so that the front of the dress is facing you. Center the back straps. Form an “X” with the back straps and bring the buttonhole loops to the front of the dress. Determine where you want to place, and sew your buttons. I counted 6 dc inwards, on the right front, and sewed my 1st button. I counted 6 dc inwards, on the left front, and sewed my 2nd button.

 

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SCARF: Have fun with the yarn colors. You can alternate yarn colors like you did for the crochet stocking legs.
-Ch8

-Make 1dc into the 4th ch from the hook, and 1dc in every st back across. (6 total)

-*Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next st and each st back across. Repeat from * 28 times. (6 total)

-Optional: Change colors every 4th row.

The next portion of the CAL will go here when it is complete. The first portion of the CAL was posted on 4Aug18. Last update 16Aug18. The only portion left is the boy elf’s outfit. Please allow 1-2 weeks for completion. 🙂

Crochet Heirloom Christmas Girl and Boy Elf Part 1 YouTube video tutorial: Introduction, materials, and starting your crochet doll.

 

Crochet Heirloom Christmas Elf Doll Hat Part 2: Just the crochet Elf Doll Hat.

 

Crochet Heirloom Christmas Girl and Boy Elf Part 3: Working on the girl and boy elf doll.

 

Crochet Heirloom Christmas Girl and Boy Elf Part 4: Finishing the crochet girl and boy doll.

 

Crochet Heirloom Christmas Girl Elf Dress Part 5 DIY Video tutorial:

The rest of the YouTube video tutorials will be placed here after they are completed.

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4 thoughts on “Crochet Amigurumi Heirloom Christmas Girl and Boy Elf CAL

  1. Jolanda from Soest in Holland August 16, 2018 — 6:52 am

    Thank you for the lovely pattern!

    1. HelenMay Crochet August 16, 2018 — 11:33 am

      Hi Jolanda! You are very welcome! Have a beautiful day!

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