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My Grandmother used to gift everyone Crochet kitchen towel toppers. I used mine until it was ragged! I always loved them, and whenever I looked at them, I would wonder how in the world she made them! Now, I make them and gift them to friends and family. I was surprised by the response to my “Life’s a Hoot!” kitchen towel toppers. People really liked them a lot! In fact, someone just asked me about them today! I had already moved them from my Facebook group files to my blog. I told her that I would keep them free for everyone. I do have other step-by-step YouTube video tutorials for different crochet kitchen towel toppers:
I don’t have this one, but I would love to have it! A Tortilla recipe on the kitchen towel! Click here.
If you like honey bees like I do, you can see the honey scone one that I made in the pictures above, you will love this complete set! Click here.
Are you getting ready for Easter? You may like these kitchen towels, be sure to look at the different designs that they have because they have more than one design at this link. Click here.
Different crocheters have different methods for making their crochet kitchen towel toppers. My Grandmother used to cut her kitchen towels to make hers. I didn’t like cutting my towels. So, I make mine with the whole kitchen towel.
If you would like to make your own Tunisian Knit Stitch crochet towel, here is the YouTube video tutorial:
For those that want to print out their own free PDF download:
I am going to add this written out portion for those that need Google Translate. Here is the kitchen towel that I chose just in time for Easter:
Open up your kitchen towel
If you don’t have a good fold down the center of your kitchen towel, you can iron one in. It will be helpful when you make your embroidery stitch across the center.
Pick the yarns that you want to use for your crochet kitchen towel topper.
Use a tapestry/darning needle with a sharp end. If you would like to see what crochet items that I use, I list them all out on my Beginner Crocheter page.
With the right side of the kitchen towel facing up. You are going to come up from the wrong side of the kitchen towel, through to the right side of the towel with your tapestry needle. Go along the center fold of the kitchen towel.
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Place the yarn at 45 degrees towards the top left corner of the kitchen towel (as shown in the picture above), go back down into the kitchen towel with your tapestry needle, going from right side to the wrong side, but don’t go all the way through the kitchen towel with your tapestry needle. Enter the kitchen towel as close as you can get to the 45 degrees angled yarn. Come back up through the kitchen towel with the tip of your tapestry needle, from the wrong side to the right side. You should have about 1cm of the kitchen towel, with your tapestry needle. Now, you can bring the tapestry needle all the way through, but go through the loop of yarn, with your tapestry needle. Cinch the loop of yarn down on top of the towel. The first embroidery stitch is made.
Now, place the point of the tapestry needle just outside the first embroidery stitch loop, towards the wrong side of the towel, bring the tapestry needle back through to the right side of the towel approximately 1cm. The point of the tapestry needle should be coming through the loop of yarn created. Make your embroidery stitch down the center of your kitchen towel. After the last embroidery stitch, tie your knot on the wrong side of your towel.
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Fold your kitchen towel. The embroidery stitches should be along the top of the towel. Join your “J,” or 6.00mm crochet hook, with your yarn, in the top right-hand corner of the towel. Put your crochet hook through the embroidery stitch on the front of the towel, and the back of the towel, joining the front and the back of the towel with a single crochet (sc) stitch (st). Place 2sc stitches in each of the combined embroidery stitches (front and back) across your kitchen towel. You may have a single center stitch, depending on how many embroidery stitches you have.
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*Chain (ch) 1, turn your work, 1sc in every st back across. Repeat from * 1 more time (Totaling 3 rows of single crochet. You should have the same number of stitches for each row).
*Turn your work, and 1 Half Double Crochet (HDC) into the next st over (Because you didn’t ch1, you will have fewer stitches for this row), and every st back across. Repeat from * until you have completed 3 rows of HDC (each of these rows should have fewer stitches for each row, creating a slight angle on each edge forming a triangle towards the top.
*Turn your work, and 1 Double Crochet (dc) into the next st, and every st back across. Repeat from * 1 more time (completing 2 rows of dc).
*Turn your work, and 1sc into the next st, and every st back across. Repeat from * until you are down to only 6 stitches.
*ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next st, and every st back across. Repeat from * until you have completed 5 rows of dc.
Ch8 (for the button loop), slip stitch (sl st) into the top st of the dc on the opposite side. Finish Off (FO). Bury your loose yarn ends.
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For the Crochet Rose:
Ch5, sl st into the first ch forming a circle.
Ch1, *sc into the center of the circle, ch3, sc into the center of the circle. Repeat from *5 times.
Ch3, slst into the first sc. You should have a total of 6 ch3 loops.
Into each of the ch3 loops, you are going to create a crochet petal: sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc.
Around the center of your crochet rose, you are going to create your inner petals. Make a sc around the first inner spoke of the crochet flower, ch2, sc around the next inner spoke, all around the inner part of the flower, creating ch2 loops all around the center of your flower. Into each of the ch2 loops, you are going to create a crochet inner petal: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
After completing all of the inner crochet petals, slst into the first sc, and FO.
At this point, you can sew a bead into the center of your flower. For mine, I made a magic circle (If you need assistance with the magic circle, click here), with 6sc. For the next round, I placed 2sc in every st in the round for a total of 12 stitches. FO. Sew this centerpiece in the middle of your flower.
Now, sew the flower onto your crochet kitchen towel topper. Place the flower in the center of your first dc row. The crochet button loop that you created will go over the flower and allow you to hang the crochet kitchen towel on your oven handle.
The very popular Quick Easy Beginner Life’s a Hoot Crochet Kitchen Towel Topper step-by-step YouTube video tutorial:
For a crochet bottom design on your kitchen towel:
I get asked a lot about where I find my kitchen towels, and I try to tell people in the beginning of the video tutorial. Just today I was asked about my “You are my Sunshine” Rooster kitchen towel. This kitchen towel is by Sonoma Goods for Life Rooster Sunshine Kitchen Towel, but I can’t find it anymore. Good Luck finding it. However, here are some other beautiful Rooster Kitchen towels that you may love:
This rooster kitchen towel is a gorgeous work of art! Click here to find it.
This rooster set is stunning, and comes in a set of 8 pieces!!! I would love this in my kitchen. Click here to find it.
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This Crochet Magical Dragon is a lot of fun to make. I made him to go with the Puff the Magic Dragon book. If you would like to get the book, click here, or the picture.
I have a step-by-step YouTube video tutorial for my crochet magic dragon, and I also have a Crochet PDF Written pattern for sale on Ravelry .
In the YouTube video tutorial because I skipped the first part of the body increase rounds because I showed how to make increase rounds with the head, so I didn’t repeat it for the body. Everything is in the YouTube video tutorials to make this gorgeous crochet magical dragon, and now you can use google translate here on my blog with the following written pattern.
Copying and distribution prohibited. For personal use only.
(Page 2)
ABBREVIATIONS:
Sc= single crochet inc= increase
Ch= chain stitch rnd(s)= round (s)
FO= finish off or fasten off Sl st= slip stitch
Right side= the side that will be showing mm= millimeter (s)
Wrong side= the side that will not be showing. cm= centimeter (s)
dc= double crochet hdc= half double crochet
st= stitch (# total)= stitch count
Sc2tog= Single crochet 2 stitches together: Insert your crochet hook into the next stitch, yarn over (YO). Pull the yarn through the stitch on your crochet hook. You should now have two loops on your crochet hook. Insert your crochet hook into the next stitch. YO. Pull the yarn through the stitch on your crochet hook. You should now have three loops on your crochet hook. YO, pull the yarn through all three loops on your crochet hook.
Crochet Amigurumi Magical Dragon Measurements are Approximations:
Large crochet magical dragon: Length 15.5 inches, width 16.5 inches.
Small little matching crochet magical dragon: length 9 inches, width 9 inches.
(Page 3)
GENERAL MATERIALS LIST: You can mix and match yarn colors for different looks. Just be aware that different yarn choices can change the look and size of your crochet giraffe when finished.
-Crochet Hook Size 4.00mm.
-Craft Safety doll eyes size 20mm.
-Optional look for eyes than YouTube video tutorial: white and black sewing needle with thread. 1 sheet black glitter felt and 1 sheet white glitter felt.
-Tapestry Needle and scissors.
-Craft stuffing. I recommend inexpensive pillow stuffing.
-Optional: I love this Needle for sewing the legs on my amigurumi. It makes it much easier.
**My yarn recommendations (On YouTube video tutorial, I used some different yarn choices. So, you can see the broad range of yarn choices that you could have when making your own unique crochet Magical Dragons.):
HEAD; STARTING WITH SNOUT: I used turquoise colored yarn
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 12).
***Alternative to the magic circle:
-ch2
-work all of your stitches in the second ch from the hook. Do not count the 1st ch you skipped as a stitch.
**Do you need additional practice, or want to learn the magic circle, here is the direct link to my YouTube video tutorial: https://youtu.be/yTXc7HEEmUU
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(36 total)
-Make 1sc in every stitch around for 3 rounds. (36 total)
–Decrease rounds:
-*Make 1sc into the next 3 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into the one remaining st. (29 total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 3 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. In the 4 remaining stitches, make 1sc into each of the stitches. (24 total)
-Make 1sc in every stitch around for 6 rounds. (24 total)
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc in the 4 remaining stitches. (28 total)
-*Make 1sc in 5 stitches and 2sc in the sixth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc in the 4 remaining stitches. (32 total)
-Make 1sc in every stitch around for 2 rounds. (32 total)
-*Make 1sc in 6 stitches and 2sc in the seventh stitch. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc in any remaining st. (36total)
-*Make 1sc in 7 stitches and 2sc in the eighth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc in the 4 remaining stitches. (40total)
(Page 5)
HEAD Cont.
-Make 1sc in every stitch around for 14 rounds. (40 total)
–Decrease rounds:
-*Make 1sc into the next 7 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (36total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 6 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (32total)
You can place your dragon eyes before or after you close the head.
Place your craft stuffing into the head.
-*Make 1sc into the next 5 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (28total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 4 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (24total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 3 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (20total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 2 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(15 Total)
-*Make 1sc into 1 stitch and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round
-Sc2tog until almost closed. Slst closed. FO.
The YouTube video tutorial has a different method for making the dragon eyes. If you would like to use that method instead go to time 18:30 in Part 1 of 2 video tutorial. Direct link: https://youtu.be/MScwkE06ErM
EYES: Make 2.
–Using your free downloadable dragon eye cut outs, and white and black glitter felt, cut out the backing for the left and right dragon eyes. Measurements length x width: Black felt 37mm x 6cm and white felt 3cm x 5cm
–Place the white felt on the black felt, fold the felt where you would like to place the safety eyes. Cut a small x with your scissors. Place the safety eyes. Make sure that you are happy with how the eyes look before placing the safety latch.
–Placement of eyes. Using the magic circle as a landmark, count back 21 rows. I had 7 st between the eyes.
–Using the royal blue sparkle yarn and tapestry needle, embroider the eyelashes.
(Page 6)
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(Page 7)
NOSTRILS: A different style from the YouTube video tutorial. Use your Royal sparkle blue colored yarn. Make 2.
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-Make 1sc into the first st in the round.
-Ch1, turn your work, make 1sc into the next st.
-Ch1, turn your work, slst into the next st. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
-Using the magic circle as a landmark, sew the nostrils, 1 row out on both sides of the circle, at a 45 degree angle.
(Page 8)
LARGE TRIANGLE: Make 1 in the main turquoise colored yarn, and 4 in the Royal Sparkle Blue colored yarn.
-Ch15
-Make 1sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, and in each st back across. (14 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (13 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (12 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (11 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (10 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (9 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (8 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (7 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (6 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (5 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (4 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (3 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (2 total)
-Turn your work, slst into the next st. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing on only 2 of the large triangles. The other 2 large triangles, just bury the shorter loose yarn ends.
SMALL TRIANGLE: Make 2 using the main Turquoise colored yarn.
-Ch10
-Make 1sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, and in each st back across. (9 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (8 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (7 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (6 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (5 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (4 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (3 total)
-Turn your work, make 1sc into the next st and every st back across. (2 total)
-Turn your work, slst into the next st. FO.
Set the crochet triangles aside for now.
BODY:
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 12).
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
(Page 9)
BODY Cont: I made my body slightly larger than on YouTube video tutorial.
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(36 total)
-*Make 1sc in 5 stitches and 2sc in the sixth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (42 total)
-*Make 1sc in 6 stitches and 2sc in the seventh stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(48 total)
-*Make 1sc in 7 stitches and 2sc in the eighth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(54 total)
-*Make 1sc in 8 stitches and 2sc in the ninth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(60 total)
-*Make 1sc in 9 stitches and 2sc in the tenth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(66 total)
-*Make 1sc in 10 stitches and 2sc in the eleventh stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (72 total)
-*Make 1sc in 11 stitches and 2sc in the twelfth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (78 total)
-Make 14 rounds of 1sc in every st around (78 total)
–Decrease rounds: Join your alternate color yarn. I used royal blue sparkle colored yarn.
-*Make 1sc into the next 10 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (72total)
-*Make 1sc into every st for 2 rounds (72 total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 9 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (66 total)
-*Make 1sc into every st for 2 rounds (66 total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 8 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (60 total)
-Join a new colored yarn. I used my gray colored yarn. Make 1sc in every st around for 2 rounds (60 Total)
-Change back to the main colored yarn, I used turquoise colored yarn.
-*Make 1sc into the next 7 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (54 total)
-*Make 1sc into every st for 2 rounds (54 total)
-*Make 1sc into the next 6 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (48 total)
-*Make 1sc into every st for 6 rounds (48 total)
(page 10)
BODY Cont:
-join new color, I used my royal sparkle blue colored yarn. *Make 1sc into the next 5 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from* for one round. Make 1sc into the remaining 6 stitches. (42 total)
-Make 1sc into every st for 4 rounds. (42 Total)
-Join main color, I used my Turquoise colored yarn. Make 1sc in every st around for 6 rounds. (42 Total)
-Join gray colored yarn. Make 1sc in every st around for 4 rounds. (42 Total)
-Join main color, I used my Turquoise colored yarn. Make 1sc in every st around for 6 rounds. (42 Total)
-Slst into the next st over. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing the head on to the body.
Take one of the large main color crochet triangles and line it up approximately 5 rows up from where you finished off on the head. Make sure the base of the triangle is centered using an imaginary line from between both of the dragon eyes. Sew the base of the triangle only, the tip of the triangle will point away from the head.
Now, take the 2 smaller triangles. Line the base of one of the small triangles just under the base of the larger triangle. The point of the small triangle should be pointing away from the head. Sew along the base of the small triangle only. Repeat on the opposite side of the head with the other small triangle.
(Page 11)
Take 2 of the Large Royal Sparkle Blue Triangles and line them up side-by-side so that the points are touching and the base of the triangles are touching. Sew the two large triangles together along the sides that are touching.
Join the gray colored yarn on one of the base triangle corners. Crocheting along the base of both large triangles: Ch3, make 1dc in each of the next 3 stitches, make 1 hdc into the next 6 stitches, make 1dc into the next 6 stitches, make 1hdc into the next 6 stitches, make 1dc into the remaining stitches along the base of the 2nd large triangle. FO
On the dragon’s head, take one of the small triangles and lay it so that the point is facing the eye. Lay one of the ears on top of the small triangles, make sure that the right sides are together. The ridged portion of the ear will be facing you. Sew the points of the triangle only to the dragon’s head at the base of the small triangle. Don’t sew the small triangle. Make sure that it is centered. Repeat on the opposite side with the other ear.
(Page 12)
NECK: I made the neck slightly larger than in the YouTube video tutorial. Use the Turquoise colored yarn.
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 12).
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(36 total)
-*Make 1sc in 5 stitches and 2sc in the sixth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (42 total)
-*Make 1sc in 6 stitches and 2sc in the seventh stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(48 total)
-*Make 1sc in 7 stitches and 2sc in the eighth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(54 total)
-*Make 1sc in 8 stitches and 2sc in the ninth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(60 total)
-*Make 1sc in 9 stitches and 2sc in the tenth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(66 total)
-*Make 1sc in 10 stitches and 2sc in the eleventh stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (72 total)
-*Make 1sc in 11 stitches and 2sc in the twelfth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (78 total)
-*Make 1sc in 12 stitches and 2sc in the thirteenth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (84 total)
(Page 13)
-*Make 1sc in 13 stitches and 2sc in the fourteenth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (90 total)
-Fold the circle in half, with the right side facing you. Make a slst into the st on the opposite side of the circle.
-After you formed the slst, you now have a circle formed on the left and right. We are going to be crocheting in rounds with the circle on the left. Go into the next st, and make 1sc. Make 1sc in every st around the left circle. (45 total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for one round. (45 total)
Decrease round:
-*Make 1sc into 3 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (36 total)
-*Make 1sc into 2 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. (27total)
-Slst into the next st. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
(Page 14)
Place the dragon’s head upside down with the back of the head facing you. Take the curved portion of the neck and center it on the base of the ears (The same area that you sewed the ears to the head) and right up to the base of the large triangle. The point of the large triangle should be facing the nostrils. Sew all along the curved portion of the neck securing it to the back of the head.
Use your craft stuffing and stuff the neck and the body.
Using your tapestry needle, sew through the top stitch on the body and the bottom stitch on the neck, sewing the neck to the body. Sew all around the base of the neck and the top part of the body, securing the neck to the body.
(Page 15)
Don’t worry if the head hangs a little low. We will lift the head, when we make the triangle scales for the back of the dragon’s neck.
DRAGON FRONT FEET: Use the main Turquoise colored yarn. Make 2 front feet.
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 12).
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
-Sc2tog 8 times and then make 1sc in each of the remaining stitches. (22 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st for 1 round. (22 Total)
-Sc2tog 4 times and then make 1sc in each of the remaining stitches. (18 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for 14 rounds. (18 Total)
-Slst into the next st over. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
DRAGON HIND FEET: Use the main Turquoise colored yarn. Make 2 hind feet.
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (total of 12).
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
-*Make 1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(36 total)
-Sc2tog 8 times and then make 1sc in each of the remaining stitches. (28 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st for 1 round. (28 Total)
-Sc2tog 4 times and then make 1sc in each of the remaining stitches. (24 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for 11 rounds. (24 Total)
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(36 Total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(48 Total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(60 Total)
(Page 16)
DRAGON HIND FEET Cont:
-Make 1sc in every st around for 9 rounds. (60 Total)
Decrease round:
-*Make 1sc into 3 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round. Make 1sc into any remaining stitches. (48Total)
-*Make 1sc into 2 stitches and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.
(36 Total)
Use your craft stuffing to stuff the hind leg. You can add more stuffing as you close.
-*Make 1sc in 1 st and then Sc2tog. Repeat from * for one round.(24 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for 1 round.
-Sc2tog around until almost closed and then slst closed. I went through any large gaps with my crochet hook to slst them smaller. FO.
Sew the front legs on the dragon’s body. Counting up from the magic circle on the bottom of the body, 32 rounds up and 10 stitches between the front legs. Make sure that the paws are facing upwards, and that you like the way the arms look before sewing them in place.
Sew the hind legs on the dragon’s body. I went up approximately 15 rounds, using the magic circle as a landmark on the bottom of the body. Make sure that your dragon can sit before securing the hind legs (The bottom of the body is level with both hind legs). Make sure that the paws are facing up.
(Page 17)
Pictures on PDF written pattern
(Page 18)
LARGE TRIANGLE SCALE ON BACK OF NECK: I used my royal blue sparkle yarn and made 2.
–Ch18
-Make 1dc into the 4th ch from the hook, and then 1dc in each st back across.
(16 Total)
-*Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from * for 6 rows. (16 total)
-FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
-Fold the piece in half to form a triangle. Sew the 2 sides of the triangle together with your tapestry needle.
SMALL TRIANGLE SCALE: I used my royal blue sparkle yarn and made 1.
-Ch12
-Make 1dc into the 4th ch from the hook, and then 1dc in each st back across.
(10 Total)
-*Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next st and every st back across. Repeat from * for 3 rows. (10 total)
-FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
-Fold the piece in half to form a triangle. Sew the 2 sides of the triangle together with your tapestry needle.
Set the triangle scales aside for now.
DRAGON WINGS: I used my royal blue sparkle yarn and the gray yarn.
–Each Dragon wing has 4 large triangles (The same sized triangle used to make the Dragon Ears), 2 of the triangles are made using royal blue sparkle yarn, and 2 of the triangles are made with the gray yarn. Alternate the colors of the triangles, and lay them side by side with the tip of the triangles pointing inward. Sew each of the triangle sides together. Make 2 Dragon wings.
-Join your Royal blue sparkle yarn in one corner of the wing. Lay 1 Chenille Pipe Cleaner on the yarn, we are going to crochet around the pipe cleaner with our royal blue sparkle yarn. Ch1, make 1sc going behind the pipe cleaner and any loose yarn ends, and make 1sc in every st across the base of 2 triangles on the wing. Once you have made a few stitches, you can pull gently on the pipe cleaner to completely cover it with the stitches. You can make 2sc in the same st if you need to in certain areas to cover the pipe cleaner. Most of my stitches had 2sc. I was able to use one pipe cleaner for my dragon wings. I was about 2 inches short for my pipe cleaner to reach the end of the wing, but I just continued making 1sc in every st past the end of the pipe cleaner. On YouTube video tutorial, my dragon wings were larger (different yarn choices), so I used 2 pipe cleaners. You can watch the YouTube video tutorial part 2 of 2, time 23:56 to see how I made the dragon wings for my other dragon. If you want a larger wing, but your yarn choice makes a smaller wing. Start with a larger chain for your large triangle, and then work the rest of the triangle the same way.
(Page 19)
DRAGON WINGS Cont.
-Ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the next 3 stitches, then 1hdc into the next 14 stitches, * then 1dc into the next 6 stitches, , then 1hdc into the next 14 stitches, repeat from * to the end of the wing.
-FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing the pipe cleaner ends in place. I tied a knot around both ends of my pipe cleaner. Bury the loose yarn ends.
DRAGON’S TAIL: Start with main color Turquoise yarn. I changed my tail from the YouTube video tutorial. I made mine slightly larger on the written pattern.
–Using the magic circle technique, make 6sc into the magic circle.
-2sc into every stitch around (12 Total).
-Make 1sc in every st for 3 rounds (12 Total)
-Increase rounds:
-*Make 1sc in 1 stitch and 2sc in the second stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(18 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (18 Total)
-*Make 1sc in 2 stitches and 2sc in the third stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(24 Total)
-Make 1sc in every st around for 3 rounds. (24 Total)
-*Make 1sc in 3 stitches and 2sc in the fourth stitch. Repeat from * for one round.
(30 total)
-Join new color and make 1sc in every st around for 5 rounds.
-Optional join new color or main color: *Make 1sc in 4 stitches and 2sc in the fifth stitch. Repeat from * for one round. (36 total)
-Alternate color stripes where you want, and finish with your main colored yarn. I made 1sc in every st around for 14 rounds in my main color.
-Slst into the next st. FO. Leave a long loose yarn end for sewing.
-Use craft stuffing to stuff the tail, position it on the back of the dragon. Make sure the tail is centered and that the tail will support your dragon while it sits. Sew it in place with our tapestry needle.
(Page 20)
SEWING THE DRAGON SCALES: I used my Royal Blue Sparkle yarn, and made 2 large triangle scales and 1 small triangle scale.
–Using your small triangle scale first. Sew it to the triangular portion on the back of the head, and pull on the small triangle to pull the dragon head up. Using the large triangle that is already in place as a lever to pull the head up. Stretch the small triangle along the back of the dragon’s neck and sew it in place along the base of the small triangle. Optional: Make another large triangle, in the main color for the dragon, to sew on top of the large triangle that you used as a lever to pull the head up, ( To replace it as decoration. You can make a sc border around the sides of the triangle too. I used my royal blue sparkle colored yarn.).
– Next get the large triangle scale. Connect it to the end of the small triangle, and you can pull on the large triangle scale if you need to pull the dragon’s head up even more. Stretch the large triangle scale along the back of the dragon’s body. Pulling the head up, and sewing the base of the large triangle to the dragon’s body. Make sure that the tip of the triangles point straight back. You may need to fold the triangle on it’s left and right side, alternating as you sew along the base of the triangle with your tapestry needle.
-The last large triangle scale is sewn on the back of the tail.
Center the wings on the back with the “C” in the center of the wing (points of triangles) face inward. Sew the top corner of the wings only, when securing them to the back of the dragon.
Helenmay Crochet Magical Dragon Part 1 of 2 Video Tutorial:
Helenmay Crochet Magical Dragon Part 2 of 2 Video Tutorial:
Matching Cute Little Magical Dragons with or without beads Part 1 of 2. No written pattern at this time:
Matching Cute Little Magical Dragons with or without beads Part 2 of 2:
You may like my other style of little crochet magical dragons too! They don’t have a written pattern at this time:
A family member started a personal web page for friends and family. We were all tasked to send letters and/or books to a sick child that was about to have a serious surgery that would require a lot of postop recovery time. We all wanted the child to have plenty of things to do and read while recovering. I thought that “How to Train Your Dragon” books and jokes would be great to go with the blue crochet little magical dragon bookmark and amigurumi. While I was making the little blue magical dragon, my granddaughter wanted one, and so the little peach magical dragon was born.
Here is the direct link to the book “How to Train Your Dragon,” if you would like this book too.
Here are free PDF downloads for the History of Magical Dragons that I sent with the book:
Smiling is always helpful during the recovery process. So, I tried to find some funny dragon jokes to send with the book also. If you would like the same dragon jokes that I sent with the Dragon book, here are the free PDF downloads:
There are affiliate links below, if you are unsure of what affiliate links are please go to “Disclosures/Disclaimers” and “Privacy Policy” at the top of my HOME page. Affiliate links basically allow me to receive a very small referral fee, butonly if you make purchases. Just because you go to the link doesn’t mean that I will receive a referral fee.
If you would like to see what happened, you can watch everything that I did at the fair that year in this video:
A Helenmay Crochet Special Donor Member named “TnDancer” made a special request for a Crochet Border Collie PDF Written pattern for my Crochet Amigurumi Border Collie step-by-step YouTube video tutorials. Also, CGL Crochet Loft wanted to know if I would host a free PDF written pattern for their April’s Birthday month free giveaway. I thought it would be the perfect way to write one PDF written pattern for both. My Paid Crochet PDF Amigurumi Border Collie Written Pattern can be found on Ravelry. Here is the direct link:
I used different crochet hook sizes and yarns for the written pattern and the YouTube video tutorial so you can see all of the different variations of the crochet border collie dog you can make using the same pattern.
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Here are some cute charms that you may want to use on your finished crochet border collie dog:
Click on the picture above, or here, to go directly to the affiliate link. Prime eligible.
Click on the picture above, or here, to go directly to the affiliate link. Prime eligible.
If you like the charm that I used for the crochet Border Collie that I made for the PDF written pattern, here is a similar charm. This charm is of better quality than the one I used for mine, and I think that it is adorable:
Click on the picture above, or here, to go directly to the affiliate link. Prime eligible.
If you would like to make one of my YouTube video tutorial crochet Border Collie Dog’s, I have the General Material list PDF free download, which shows all of the different yarns that I used. All of the step-by-step YouTube video tutorials that you need to create your Crochet Border Collie Dog Masterpiece are below:
There are affiliated links below. If you are unsure of what affiliated links are, please read my “Disclosures/Disclaimers” and “Privacy Policy,” which can be found at the top of my Home page.
I like to include a recipe with my kitchen crochet patterns on video tutorial. So, if you find another crochet hot pad that you like from my collection of video tutorial patterns on Helenmay Crochet You Tube Channel, you might also find a little treasure in the form of a recipe. I have included a recipe after the written pattern here too.
However, enjoy the free crochet written pattern on my blog! If you scroll towards the bottom of this blog post, you will find Google Translate!
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If you would like to see a list of all of my Crochet PDF written patterns that can be found on Ravelry go to the top of my blog’s HOME page for the direct link!
The first written pattern is for the Crochet Pumpkin Hot Pad without the braided cable, and the second written pattern is for the Crochet Pumpkin Hot Pad with the braided cable.
ABBREVIATIONS
SC= single crochet inc=increase
Ch= chain stitch rnd(s)=round (s)
FO= finish off or fasten off Sl st= slip stitch
mm= millimeter (s) hdc= half double crochet dc=double crochet
FP dc=front post double crochet BP dc=back post double crochet
tr= treble crochet Dc2tog= double crochet 2 stitches together
GENERAL MATERIALS LIST:
-1 skein “I Love This Cotton” yarn color Glowing and/or Papaya
-1 skein “I Love This Cotton” yarn color Bright Green
-1 skein “I Love This Cotton” yarn color Brown
– 4.00mm crochet hook
-1 tapestry needle
-1 pair of scissors
STITCH GUIDE: This pattern is for all levels of crocheters, but for beginners, look at all of the crochet stitches you will be using for this crochet pattern. The video tutorial is also available after the written pattern.
hdc: Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook into the next stitch over, bring up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yo and draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook. You have completed a hdc.
dc: Yo and insert your hook into the next stitch over, bring up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, twice. You have completed a dc.
FP dc: Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook so that the next stitch dc post is in front of your crochet hook (Front of crochet work to Back of crochet work, across the back of the dc post, and then from Back of crochet work to Front of Crochet work). The dc post should be in front of the crochet hook. Bring up a loop, you should have 3 loops on the hook, yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, twice. You have completed a FP dc.
BP dc: Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook so that the next stitch dc post is in back of your crochet hook (Back of crochet work to Front of crochet work, across the front of the dc post, and then Front of crochet work to back of crochet work). The dc post should be in back of the crochet hook. Bring up a loop, you should have 3 loops on the hook, yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, twice. You have completed a BP dc.
dc2tog: Yo and insert your hook into the next stitch over, bring up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook. You have 2 loops remaining on your crochet hook. Yo and insert your hook into the next stitch over, bring up a loop. You now have 4 loops on your hook. Yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, yo and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on the hook. You have completed a dc2tog.
Treble Crochet: Yo twice and insert your hook into the next stitch over, bring up a loop. You now have 4 loops on your hook. Yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, three times. You have completed a tc.
BP tr: Yo twice and insert your hook so that the next stitch dc post is in back of your crochet hook (Back of crochet work to Front of crochet work, across the front of the dc post, and then Front of crochet work to back of crochet work). The dc post should be in back of the crochet hook. Bring up a loop, you should have 4 loops on the hook, yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, three times. You have completed a BP tr.
FP tr: Yo twice and insert your hook so that the next stitch dc post is in front of your crochet hook (Front of crochet work to Back of crochet work, across the Back of the dc post, and then Back of crochet work to Front of crochet work). The dc post should be in front of the crochet hook. Bring up a loop, you should have 4 loops on the hook, yo and draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, three times. You have completed a FP tr.
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAD WITHOUT BRAIDED CABLEFREE WRITTEN PATTERN
-ch18
Row 1- Make 1dc into the 4th ch from the hook, and 1dc in every stitch back across (16 total).
Row 2- Ch 3, turn your work, make 1dc into the same stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches.* 1 BP dc around next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, Repeat from * for a total of 4 times. 1 dc into the next 2 stitches, and 2dc into the last stitch (18 total).
Row 3- ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the same stitch, make 1dc into the next 2 stitches, skip next stitch, make 1 FP dc around previous rows BP dc, turn your work and make 1dc into the skipped stitch. Turn your work and make 1 dc into the same FP dc stitch from the previous row. 2dc into next stitch, 1dc into next stitch, FP dc, 1dc in 2 stitches, FP dc, 1dc into next stitch, 2dc into next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, FP dc around the previous rows BP dc. 3 stitches remaining. Make 1dc into the next 2 stitches, and 2dc in the remaining stitch (24 total).
Row 4- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the same stitch. 1 dc into the next 2 stitches, skip a stitch, 1 BP dc, 1dc in skipped stitch, 1dc in BP dc stitch, 1dc in next 5 stitches, 1 BP dc, 1 dc into the next 2 stitches, 1 BP dc, 1dc into the next 7 stitches, turn your work, FP dc around previous rows FP dc stitch, turn your work, make 1dc into the next 2 stitches, and 2dc in the remaining stitch (28 total).
Row 5- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 7 stitches (Don’t miss the first stitch. Your posts should be lined up), 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 7 stitches, 1 FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 4 stitches (28 total).
Row 6- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, 1BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 7 stitches, 1BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 7 stitches, 1 BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 4 stitches (28 total).
Row 7- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 7, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 7 stitches, 1 FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 4 stitches (28 total).
Row 8- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, turn your work, FP dc around the previous rows FP dc stitch, turn your work, 1dc into the next 6 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 6 stitches, turn your work, skip the next stitch and make a FP dc around the previous rows FP dc stitch, turn your work, make 1dc into the skipped stitch, 1dc into the FP dc stitch, and 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the remaining stitch (28 total).
Row 9- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc into the next 4 stitches, FP dc around the previous rows FP dc stitch, 1dc into the next 5 stitches, FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, FP dc around the next stitch, 1 dc into the next 5 stitches, skip a stitch, FP dc around the previous rows FP dc stitch, turn your work, make 1dc into the skipped stitch, turn your work, 1dc into the previous rows FP dc stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, dc2tog, 1dc in the remaining stitch (28 total).
Row10- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, make 1dc into 2 stitches, turn your work, FP dc around previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into 2 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, turn your work, skip a stitch, FP dc around previous rows FP dc, turn your work, make 1dc into skipped stitch, 1dc into previous rows FP dc stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch (24 total).
Row 11- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, FP dc around the next stitch, dc2tog, 1 dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the last stitch (20 total).
Row 12- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc around the next 3 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the remaining 4 stitches.
Now, turn your crochet work to begin crocheting the edging. We are going to crochet down the side of the crochet pumpkin first. Al1 along the side of the crochet work, there are the beginning chain 3’s on each row, that are now on their side. We are going to be crocheting into the space below the chain 3’s. Crochet 2sc into each space below the chain 3’s along the side of the pumpkin.
After finishing the last 2sc into the last ch3 space along the side of the crochet pumpkin, make 2hdc into the first dc stitch along the bottom of the crochet pumpkin. Make 1hdc into every stitch along the bottom of the crochet pumpkin, except for the last stitch. Crochet 2hdc into the last stitch. Continue crocheting 2sc into every ch3 space on the opposite side of the crochet pumpkin. Continue crocheting 2hdc into the first stitch along the top of the crochet pumpkin, and 1hdc in each stitch across the top, except the last stitch. Make 2hdc in the last stitch. Sl st. FO.
Pumpkin Stem: Brown colored yarn
-ch7 Row 1-1dc into the 4th chain from the hook, and then 1dc into each stitch back across (5 total). Row 2 and 3-*ch3, turn your work, 1dc in each stitch, repeat from * 1 more time (5 total).
Make sure the right side of the pumpkin is facing you. Place, and center, the stem at the top of the pumpkin (Overlap the dc row on the stem, on top of the hdc row, at the top of the pumpkin). Sew the stem in place.
Pumpkin Kitchen towel strap: Brown colored yarn
-ch7
Row 1-1dc into the 4th chain from the hook, and then 1dc into each stitch back across (5 total).
Rows 2 through 6-*ch3, turn your work, 1dc in each stitch, repeat from * (5 total).
-Button loop: ch5, slst into the top stitch on the opposite side. FO.
Pumpkin Leaf: Bright green colored yarn
-ch14 One side of leaf
-1sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, and 1sc into the next stitch, 1hdc into the next 2 stitches, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1 treble crochet into the next 2 stitches, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc into the next 2 stitches, 4sc into the last stitch.
Opposite side of leaf- Turn your work, so that you are crocheting into the stitches on the opposite side of the leaf. 1hdc into the next 2 stitches, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1 treble crochet into the next 2 stitches, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc into the next 2 stitches, 1sc into the 2 remaining stitches. Sl st. ch1. FO.
With the right side of the pumpkin facing you, sew the crochet leaf on to the bottom right corner of the stem. I only sewed the base of the leaf to the stem.
Pumpkin cork screw vine: Bright green colored yarn
-ch23
-3sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, and 3sc into every stitch back across. -FO.
With the right side of the pumpkin facing you, sew the cork screw vine on to the bottom left corner of the stem. I only sewed the base of the cork screw vine to the stem.
Crochet Pumpkin Hot Pad, and Kitchen Towel Topper, with a Braided Cable
-ch21
Row 1- Make 1dc into the 4th ch from the hook, and 1dc in every stitch back across (19 total).
Row 2- Ch 3, turn your work, make 1dc into the same stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches.* 1 BP dc around next stitch, 1dc into the next stitch. Start of cable: Skip 3 stitches and make 1 BP tr around the 4th stitch, 1 BP tr around the next 2 stitches, 1 BP tr around each of the 3 skipped stitches (starting with the first furthest skipped stitch), and go in front of the 3 BP tr crochet stitches just completed, 1 BP dc around the next 3 unworked stitches, end of the cable stitches. 5 remaining stitches: 1dc into the next stitch, 1 BP dc, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 2dc into the last stitch (21 total).
Row 3- ch3, turn your work, make 1dc into the same stitch, make 1dc into the next 2 stitches, skip next stitch, make 1 FP dc around previous rows BP dc, turn your work and make 1dc into the skipped stitch. Turn your work and make 1 dc into the same FP dc stitch from the previous row, 1dc into next stitch. Start of cable stitch: 1FP dc around each of the next 9 stitches (work the back stitches first, 4th,5th, and 6th stitch), end of the cable stitches. 6 remaining stitches: 1 dc into the next 3 stitches, make a FP dc around the previous rows BP dc (it will be at an angle), 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 2dc into the last stitch (25 total).
Row 4- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the same stitch. 1 dc into the next 2 stitches, skip a stitch, turn your work, 1 FP dc around previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc in skipped stitch, 1dc in FP dc stitch, 1dc in next 3 stitches. Start of cable: 1bp dc around the next 3 stitches, skip 3 stitches, 1 BP tr around the next 3 stitches, turn your work, 1 FP tr around each of the 3 skipped stitches, starting with the furthest skipped stitch, turn your work, cable stitches completed. 8 stitches remaining: 1 dc into 5 stitches, turn your work, FP dc around previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, 2dc into the last stitch (29 total).
Row 5- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 5 stitches (Don’t miss the first stitch. Your posts should be lined up). Start of the cable stitch: 1 BP dc around each of the front 3 treble crochet stitches from the previous row, 1BP dc around each of the back 3 treble crochet stitches from the previous row, 1 BP dc around the 3 remaining stitches, end of cable stitches. 10 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 5 stitches, 1FP dc, 1dc into the remaining 4 stitches (29 total).
Row 6- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, 1BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 5 stitches. Start of the cable stitches: Skip 3 stitches, make 1 BP tr around the next 3 stitches, 1BP tr around the skipped 3 stitches, starting with the furthest skipped stitch first, and go in front of the 3 BP tr crochet stitches just completed (Just like you did for the cable stitch on row 2), 1 bp dc around the next 3 unworked stitches, end of cable stitches. 10 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 5 stitches, 1 BP dc, 1dc in the 4 remaining stitches (29 total).
Row 7- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, 1FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 5 stitches. Start of the cable stitches: 1FP dc around each stitch just like row 3, end of cable stitches. 10 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 5 stitches, 1 FP dc, 1dc in the 4 remaining stitches (29 total).
Row 8- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, turn your work, FP dc around the previous rows FP dc stitch, turn your work, 1dc into the next 4 stitches. Cable stitches start: 1BP dc around the first 3 stitches, skip 3 stitches, 1BP tr around the next 3 stitches, turn your work, 1FP tr around the skipped 3 stitches (starting with the furthest skipped stitch), turn your work (cable is made the same way as row 4), end of cable stitches. 6 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 4 stitches, turn your work, skip a stitch, 1FP dc around the previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc into the skipped stitch, 1dc into the previous rows FP dc stitch, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the last stitch (29 total).
Row 9- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc into the next 4 stitches, FP dc around the previous rows FP dc stitch, 1dc into the next 3 stitches. Cable stitches start: 1 FP dc around each of the next 9 stitches (Just like Row 5, except you are making a FP dc), end of cable stitches. 10 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 3 stitches, skip a stitch, 1FP dc around the previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc into the skipped stitch, turn your work, 1dc into the FP dc stitch of the previous row, 1dc into the next 2 stitches, dc2tog, 1dc into the last stitch (29 total).
Row10- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, make 1dc into 2 stitches, turn your work, FP dc around previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc into the next 2stitches. Start of cable: Skip 3 stitches and make 1 BP tr around the 4th stitch, 1 BP tr around the next 2 stitches, 1 BP tr around each of the 3 skipped stitches (starting with the first furthest skipped stitch), and go in front of the 3 BP tr crochet stitches just completed, 1 BP dc around the next 3 unworked stitches, end of the cable stitches (Just like Row 2). 10 remaining stitches: 1dc into the next 2 stitches, turn your work, skip a stitch, 1 FP dc around previous rows FP dc, turn your work, 1dc into skipped stitch, 1dc into previous rows FP dc, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the remaining stitch (27 total).
Row 11- Ch3, turn your work, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, FP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches. Start of cable stitch: 1FP dc around each of the next 9 stitches (work the back stitches first, 4th,5th, and 6th stitch), end of the cable stitches (Just like Row 3). 9 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 2 stitches, FP dc around the previous rows FP dc, dc2tog, 1dc into the next stitch, dc2tog, 1dc into the remaining stitch ( 23 total).
Row 12- Ch3, turn your work, 1dc into the next 3 stitches, BP dc around the next stitch, 1dc into the next 2 stitches. Start of cable: 1bp dc around the next 3 stitches, skip 3 stitches, 1 BP tr around the next 3 stitches, turn your work, 1 FP tr around each of the 3 skipped stitches, starting with the furthest skipped stitch, turn your work, cable stitches completed (Just like Row 4). 7 stitches remaining: 1dc into the next 2 stitches, BP dc around the previous rows FP dc, 1dc into the 4 remaining stitches (23 total).
The rest of the crochet pumpkin is made the same way. Go back to the crochet pumpkin edging, stem, leaf, and corkscrew vine.
Copyright 2017 by Helen Brady. All rights reserved. This pattern may not be used for purposes of mass production.
Video tutorials are after the recipe Healthy Banana Date Muffins
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I don’t have many cookbooks in my kitchen anymore, because we can pretty much get any recipe we want off the internet. However, I do have this cookbook in my kitchen!!! The 40th anniversary edition is considered a classic listed as one of the top ten best-selling cookbooks of all time by the New York Times.
One of my favorite Healthy cookbooks to use!!!!! For the 40th anniversary edition too! Click here. Click here, if you would like to get a more recent edition of their cookbook. I have one of the older versions, which is amazing also!!
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAT WITHOUT BRAIDED CABLE PART 1
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAD WITHOUT BRAIDED CABLE SKIPPED ROW 4
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAT WITHOUT BRAIDED CABLE PART 2
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAT WITHOUT BRAIDED CABLE PART 3
CROCHET PROJECT LEAF FOR PUMPKIN OR FLOWER QUICK, EASY, BEGINNER
CROCHET CORKSCREW VINE FOR PUMPKIN, OR OTHER PROJECTS, QUICK, EASY, BEGINNER
CROCHET PUMPKIN QUICK EASY KITCHEN TOWEL TOPPER
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAT WITH BRAIDED CABLE PART 1
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAT WITH BRAIDED CABLE PART 2
CROCHET PUMPKIN HOT PAT WITH BRAIDED CABLE PART 3
OF COURSE I HAD TO HAVE A RECIPE INCLUDING PUMPKIN!!!! YOU ARE GOING TO LOVE THESE PUMPKIN COOKIES!!
#2 is a Granny Square 4 leaf clover design that measures 10 inches x 10 inches
I also made this #2 Granny Square 4 leaf clover design in this color:
If you like the way the above picture looks, I started with a magic circle instead. If you want to learn how to make the magic circle, here is the link to the video tutorial: Practice video tutorial for the magic circle. If you would like to learn more about what the magic circle is, here is the direct blog link: All about the magic circle.
The yarn that I chose was Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Cotton Yarn” light green color and one of my new favorite Hobby Lobby yarns Yarn Bee Fresh Haven 100% Tencel yarn! I used the beige-colored yarn for my alternate color.
You can make a granny square afghan out of these beautiful finished squares and/or kitchen hot pads!! They make wonderful gifts! To check out more of my fun crochet hot pad/ potholders, here is the direct blog link: Helenmay Crochet kitchen Hot Pad Potholder Dresses
Welcome to my Granny Square Series!Our first Granny Square will, of course, be the Classic Design. I have added a few crochet granny squares that are mine, but as I started this crochet granny square series, I was finding amazing and FREE crochet Granny square PDF downloads! All of the following crochet granny square PDF downloads were free when the links were added to this blog post. ENJOY!!!
Remember Crochet Hook size, and yarn choice will change the size of your Granny Square.
If you have your own completed crochet granny square work, please share a picture with me on Facebook!
“Although particular color and pattern schemes for granny squares change with time, this class of motif is a staple among crocheters. Multicolor granny squares are an effective way to use up small amounts of yarn leftover from other projects and basic granny square motifs do not require advanced skills to execute.”
“Any granny square begins with a small loop of chain stitches. Basic granny squares alternate sets of double stitches and chain stitches. Variant patterns use different stitch types or produce other geometric shapes such as hexagons. In order to achieve a distinct angle at the corners, the designer uses extra chain stitches. Subsequent rounds are added by wrapping multiple stitches around the existing chain stitches. Hundreds of variant motifs are in use and entire books have been devoted to granny square designs.“
I made a PDF version of the picture that I like to carry around with me, when I am deciding what colors I want to use for the Granny Squares that I am making for my Afghan. The other PDF download shows you an example of a gorgeous afghan that uses different sized Granny Squares to complete it. It is not mine, but I would love to have it! They are free for you to download:
5May 2015: I made this You Tube video tutorial for the Classic Granny Square when “Yarnspirations” was collecting Granny Squares from people. There were a lot of free patterns, at the time, that they gave for people to use when making their Granny Squares. I shared some of the gorgeous color schemes in my video. This was also the only video tutorial where I actually ranted a little bit, and rightfully so! I just came to realize that it is an unfortunate part of creating, and it is now a tiny battle that I “rarely” have to fight behind the scenes. I haven’t had the same problem since the episode. Thank goodness because now YouTube has a new copyright detection which is amazing!
There are many different ways to crochet your Granny Squares together, and I may come back to this at some point in the future. If I do, you will see it here and on YouTube. For now, I like to sew my Granny Squares together. If you would like to see how I do it, here is the video tutorial:
If you love the crochet granny square, then you will have fun with this crochet blanket! Here is the direct link: Crochet Couverture Blanket
Now, for the second design in my Granny Square Series:
This video tutorial shows how to make the Granny Square design into a Kitchen
Hot Pad/Potholder. I also show a quick and easy way to add beads to the recipe holder that goes with the Hot Pad. You may like the recipe I added towards the end of the video tutorial. I love to add recipes to most of my crochet kitchen YouTube video tutorials. Enjoy!
Design #7 Crochet Beautiful Flower Granny Square. You can place any crochet flower that you want on this Granny Square. To see more flowers to choose from, here is the direct link: Crochet Flower Design Series Blog Post.
You are going to love the above Crochet Granny Square!!! Crochet by Ellej shows in detail how to use the Bargello Crochet technique to make the gorgeous crochet granny square above. At first glance, it may not seem that difficult to make, but there is a lot more going on with creating this masterpiece! This crochet granny square technique will have all your crochet friends begging you for the crochet pattern, and it is free! This technique is definitely in my favorites files! Her pictorials are awesome! For beginners, I recommend saving this beauty in your favorites files. After you have completed some easier granny squares, I would then attempt this beauty. I tried to go directly to Ellej.org, but my computer wouldn’t allow it. My computer security kept blocking it. “All Free Crochet” has posted the free links and attributed the crochet instructor “By: Elena Kozhukhar.” Elena did an outstanding job showing us how to use the Bargello technique to make this gorgeous crochet granny square. Click the picture above, or click here to go to the free crochet pattern: Bargello Crochet Afghan block
I was in the Facebook Group “Crochet Baby Blankets” when I saw this beautiful crochet pattern. Sineide was gracious enough to share the link with me. Click on the link above or the picture below if you would like to have the free written pattern. You have to scroll down until you see ” Download Lady’s Fan Coverlet and Pillow” in lavender bold lettering. I am not sure how long it will remain free. Last updated 19Aug19
The link works because I have already downloaded my copy for my favorites file. It is one of those beautiful crochet patterns that I will never know when I will get to it but I want the pattern just in case! Enjoy!
I don’t know how long some of the crochet pattern links will remain free. Hopefully, you will be able to save your free copy.
#11. Charlotte’s Dream Pattern Granny Square
The Charlotte’s Dream Pattern link was shared with me by Facebook Group Crochet and Knitting Free Patterns! It is simply stunning!!!! I was able to access the link easily (No scam phishing cons!) I was able to access all 3 PDF downloads for free! I am not sure how long this gorgeous crochet pattern will be free (Last updated 27Nov18), so make sure to put this stunning beauty in your favorites file for later use. Here is the link trail that I followed:
Facebook Group Crochet and Knitting Free Patterns messaged me the free pattern link.
I clicked on the link and went to “CK Crafts online” web site. I scrolled down to after “Punctuation,” and you will see Charlottes Dream Pattern Links 1, 2, and 3.
I clicked on each of the links and went to “Look at what I made.net.” If you want the free PDF crochet written pattern, scroll down to the end where you will see “Happy Hooking, xxx Dedri.” Immediately to the right, you will see “Print Friendly.” Click on that, and you will immediately go to the printable version. In the top left corner, you will see PDF. If the PDF written pattern is still free, you should be able to click on it and save it to your favorites file. Thank you Dedri for an absolutely stunning free crochet pattern!!!
#12 Esme’s Winter Cottage. I am not sure how long this will remain a free PDF download, but I was able to download it for free on 23Dec18. I would recommend saving it in your files, because it is a beauty.
I found the free PDF download in the bottom right hand corner after the blog post. Here is the direct link: Esme’s Winter Cottage Granny SquareEnjoy!
#13 Helen Shrimpton Spiro Star Crochet Granny Square
I found the above free PDF download on Ravelry on 23Dec18. If it is still free, it is also a fun crochet granny square to add to your free PDF files. Here is the direct link: Helen Shrimpton Spiro Star Crochet Granny Square
#14. Denna by Polly Plum
Amazing right! Simply gorgeous! I would add this to your future crochet fun files while is remains free! I downloaded this free PDF on 23Dec18. Here is the direct Ravelry link: Denna Polly Plum Granny Square
#15. Le Vesinet Granny Square Designed by Sigrun Hugoey
I was able to download the free PDF file on 23Dec18. Here is the direct Ravelry link:
I was able to download my PDF written pattern for free on 23Dec18. Here is the direct Ravelry link: Lise by Polly Plum
#21. Rosary Hill Afghan CAL from the year 2016 sponsored partly by Red Heart Yarn.
Click on the picture above, or here, to go directly to the link. There are 3 different crochet granny squares that can be found for this gorgeous afghan.
#22. Magnolia Lace Crochet Granny Square by Kirsten Holloway:
Click on the picture above, or click here, to go directly to the link.
#23. The Great Granny Square Swap that occurred in the year 2010. These wonderful crocheters put together several free crochet granny square designs for everyone to enjoy! Fast forward to the year 2019 and it is still available for free to everyone! Thankyou very much! Happy Crocheting!
Click the picture above, or here to go to the direct link for your download. It was available for free on 2Jun2019.
#25 I never heard of Schachenmayr until someone mentioned the name in one of my Facebook Crochet Groups. They have a lot of free PDF crochet downloads on their site. They have a filter if you are looking for free PDF crochet written patterns. If you see that it is in a different language, you will notice that there is a button in the lower-left corner of the pattern where you can change the language to English. 🙂
Here is just one of the free PDF written patterns that I downloaded, but there were several others that I loved too:
#26. Eve’s Coverlet 12″ Squares. I first saw this crochet beauty in one of the Crochet Facebook Groups 19Aug19, and I was able to follow the link and download the beautiful PDF pattern for free:
29. “Alphabetical” Granny Squares. What I love about this free crochet pattern it also gives a few pointers for filet crochet too! For some reason the “J” and the “Y” are missing, but you could easily graph them if you need to. Free as of 30Sept19
31. Need help with more ways to graph the alphabet? You will love this link to a free PDF download. It gives all of the graphed letters in this pattern for a monogramed crochet Christmas stocking. Crochet Bernat Monogramed Christmas Stocking.
32. Need a good crochet pirate granny square? You are going to love this free PDF download link!! Caron Pirate Throw Granny Square.
36. Crochet Granny Square Hooded Baby Jacket designed by Marion Schneider.
I used a 5.00mm crochet hook and made a crochet sweater sized for a 4 to 5y/o.
This crochet pattern is so quick and easy to make! It is also great for using up excess yarn! I want to follow the original pattern and make a baby-sized one too (Newborn to 3 months)!
If you want the crochet pattern, you can find it in the following leaflet, click here, or the picture below to go directly to the affiliate link.
For my pom-pom tie, I used a ch140 and then I crocheted into the back bump of the chain to make the pom-pom tie/cord.
I used dome-shaped flower buttons that I purchased at Joann’s Craft store (Non-affiliate), but you may like the buttons in the picture above. Click the picture above, or here, to go directly to the affiliate link.
39. I just love Deramores! I signed up to receive their emails and I love a lot of their free crochet patterns that they share! I wanted to add this link for the “Lisbon Tiles Blanket” by Anna Nikipirowicz because it shows how you can take what starts as a circle and turn it into an octagon:
40. Cheers Granny Square by Polly Plum. She has a free PDF download as of 9Feb20 on her site (Look for printer friendly button at the bottom of her blog post).
You can also scroll down to become a subscriber to my blog!
I hope that you enjoy all of the gorgeous designs from so many talented crochet art designers!!! I will continue to add my favorite crochet granny squares to this list. Last updated 3Jun20.
Helenmay Crochet You Tube Channel 